That drying membrane contracts tightly around the chicks body and it can't move to break free and hatch. When the cooler, dry air from outside hits the pipped or partially zipped eggs inside, the membrane starts to dry out. I know you're probably adding extra water or spraying with a mister bottle when you open the lid, but it's simply not enough! However, just opening it any time you want to is a recipe for disaster. Of course sometimes you must get chicks out if they've been out of their shells for too long and you're still waiting on stragglers to hatch. Opening incubator during lockdown: It's called lockdown for a reason! The incubator is supposed to remain closed from the start of lockdown till the last chick hatches. You have about an hour to get it adjusted that way. The takeaway lesson from this is that if you find your incubator suddenly struggling to maintain correct temperature, err on the low side rather than the high side. Because of this natural behavior the eggs are capable of tolerating short bouts of cooler temps. When an egg is being hatched by a broody hen, she will leave the nest daily to eat. However, even though 99.5 ° is the optimum temperature for a forced egg incubator, the eggs can get considerable cooler for a longer period of time and still survive. That's only 5 degrees higher than ideal! Even if it's a short temperature spike. Now I'm going to tell you something very important about rising and falling incubator temperatures.low is better than high! If the temperature inside the incubator gets over 104.9° your eggs have no chance of survival. You'll need to keep a very close eye on it to make sure the temp stays within the safe range.ĭirect sunlight and drafts can affect an incubators internal temperature, so if your incubator is in a room that has these issues you'll want to move it to a better area rather than fight with it all hatch long! When you raise or lower the room temperature it will affect the temperature inside the incubator. In this case the incubator temperature is set and remains steady. I had a few Styrofoam incubators like this and most homemade incubators are the same way. If your incubator does not have a digital control then you will have to monitor it more closely and may have to adjust it during incubation to avoid temperature changes. So if you raise your house temperature 2 degrees, it will automatically keep the temp inside steady. If your incubator has a digital control panel then it will auto adjust to the room temperature. However, certain types of incubators do not have an automatic adjustment feature. If you've tested your incubator for a few days as I recommended, you'll know that your incubator temp holds steady. Letting the temperature spike: This goes along with the first point actually, but does deserve it's own mention. I calibrate my hygrometers every year to keep my incubator humidity accurate. You should also be checking your thermometers for accuracy before using them. If it does not have one built in, I add 2 inside. If my incubator has a built in thermometer I add another one inside. Use 2 different thermometers/hygrometers to check it. To test an incubator, turn it on and leave it on for at least 48 hours. Now obviously if you're hatching in succession you don't need to stop and test between hatches, but if the incubator has been off for any length of time you need to test it before setting eggs. You want to make sure your incubator is holding steady before you add eggs to it. Settings can get bumped, the incubator shell could have developed a crack during storage or the heating element could have burned out. Whether it's a brand new incubator or the same one that you use every year, it needs tested before each hatch to make sure the temperature and humidity are correct. Not testing your incubator: Every incubator should be tested before every hatch. These are the ones that end badly every single time. Another year with those and I moved on to 1 then 2 cabinet incubators and I've learned quite a bit in all those years of hatching! Here are the 4 biggest mistakes I've made. I hatched chicks, ducks, quail and guineas using those for a few years before moving on to small Brinsea incubators. Within a few months I needed more space so I moved up to 2 Styrofoam incubators with and without turners. I started by making my own incubator, which is easier than it sounds. I've been hatching my own chickens since 2009.
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